"not quilting"

November Morning Make 2021

Oh, what a month!

It is a very good thing we live in a small house because after a month of mornings spent weaving I am dreaming of a large loom. Just a dream though, because that small house thing. Weaving is a delightful discovery for me.

Like many of my Morning Makes, the challenge of being a beginner was there. You can definitely see the progression between day 1 and 20 in my simple coasters. Learning set up, tension, and patterns was a lot at once but the pursuit of improvement drove me. As did the meditative aspect of this. Those two things combined made this a perfect Morning Make for me.

See? Look at that improvement in technique from right to left. Learning tension was a key thing. So was understanding patterns. Some I picked up more easy than others, some still confused me at the end. There is so much more to try.

These coasters were made on the small frame loom. I bought a kit from Anne at Flax and Twine. I already had her book, Weaving Within Reach, but you can buy that from her too. In fact, everything I made came from her book and all supplies from her. It was a nice one stop shopping opportunity. She has loads of kits and video classes too.

While I could have made coasters endlessly I had purchased supplies for some other projects so moved on.

The Bento Bag pattern really appealed to me for its modern styling. I also, frankly, thought it would be easy. While it wasn’t difficult, it was a bit tedious. I do quite love the results. You can buy handles and turn it into a purse even. In the book it is styled as a yarn bag which, I think, would be quite lovely. The bag doesn’t stand up without anything in it and the fruit from our dining room table isn’t quite the right filler! I’m sure it will find a good home soon enough.

The month ended before I finished the next project so I’ve just continued into December with it. Using a rope twine I am making a basket. This is another meditative project and I can see more in my future. I am even contemplating dying some of the rope to see what happens. Stay tuned.

May Morning Make 2021

May is commonly known as Me Made May in sewing circles. The goal of which is for people to both showcase their hand made clothing and reflect on ready to wear/fast fashion clothing in their closets. Really, it is an opportunity to show off your sewing and styling.

While I am far away from a handmade wardrobe, I do have a few things that I wear consistently. It’s been years since I sewed any clothing of my own though. So instead of showcasing a handmade wardrobe for Me Made May I decided to work on building mine through my Morning Make Practice. Each day I woke up and spent a little time working on clothing items from start to finish. Some days I only cut fabric or sewed just a couple of seams, some days I spent an hour or more moving from step to step. On the weekends I often found myself spending the afternoon making a lot of progress. The pandemic is certainly good for this extra, quiet time at home.

In the end I made 6 garments. Three for me, one I will give away because it ended up being way too small, and one each for my girls.

Gallery Tunic in Liberty.jpg

The Gallery Tunic by Liesl and Co. I’ve made this a couple of times before and like the fit. It was a good one to start with for it’s familiarity. I was wearing it to work by May 4.

Charlie Caftan.jpg

The Charlie Caftan was a pattern I’d admired for a while. I liked that I saw it on many different body types with a lot of different design and fabric options. This was my wearable muslin. I bought a gorgeous rayon to make another version with but I need to make some adjustments to the pattern. For now, the whole house agrees I made a very lovely hospital gown.

Lark boatneck.jpg

The Lark by Grainline Studio has been sitting in my sewing room for years. I made a few Linden sweatshirts years ago and liked the pattern. I loved the idea of making a basic tee. And I really wanted to sort out sewing with knits on my machine. Well, my fabric did not have enough stretch and this DOES NOT fit. Bummed because I really liked this fabric. It was a discouraging experience and stopped me from using knits for the rest of the month. But I forged ahead with the finish to learn more about my machine and sewing with knits. Then a friend claimed the shirt, no matter what.

Kalle in Pink.jpg

Another Closet Core Pattern, like the Charlie Caftan, this is the Kalle Shirt Dress. I’ve had the pattern and this fabric for it since a visit to Patch Halifax in 2018. This shirt was a huge learning curve of techniques, but between the pattern and the sew along everything was well explained. Which is more than I can say for how to do buttonholes on my Bernina. This will definitely get worn out of the house.

Ogden Cami.jpg

The Ogden Cami by True Bias was the perfect match for this fabric my oldest, The Monster, has been hoarding. We picked it up in 2019 at the Contextural show in town and it is a hand painted fabric by Caroline Forde. Cropped, because she is 14, and with the lining made longer based on pattern reviews, it is perfect all around. Not a pattern for a large buster 46 year old, but perfect for her.

Fiore Skirt.jpg

Finally, the Fiore Skirt, also by Closet Core patterns for my newly minted teen, The Evil Genius. She came with me at the beginning of the month to by thread at Rick Rack Textiles, spotted the pattern, and convinced me to make it for her. I’m not sure if it was bribery on her part to pick fabric of my own design. If so, well played. The pattern came together very well and I am tempted to make a linen version for myself.

Unlike quilts, I felt a very strong need to finish each of these garments before moving on to the next. So much so that I felt them as a bit of a weight at times. I’m not sure I will be as focused on one thing of this magnitude again for Morning Make again! It was a lot of thinking for first thing in the morning too. Quite often I found myself needing to come back in the afternoon or evening just so I could have my brain be really awake for the task at hand.

It was really good to get back to garment sewing again. With the new techniques I’ve picked up I am even more motivated to keep going. Just maybe not at quite the same pace. I have a few more things I would like to make for summer. And, of course, my son has requested I make him something now. As for Morning Make, I’ve moved on to something entirely different for June, something a lot less taxing first thing in the morning.

March Morning Make 2021

March Morning Make Cheryl Arkison.jpg

“You are so creative”

A dear friend said this to me after my first post for March Morning Make. I actually had a visceral reaction to her statement. It’s not that I disagree with her, it’s that she said it with the hanging “and I am not” to it. I was actually upset about it for days. The thing is, I am no more creative than she is, than anyone is. What I am is willing to exercise and explore that creativity in unique ways. She is a mother and works in a dynamic environment. Her daily life requires constant creativity to get through the day. She is so creative.

Scientists and engineers are creative. Doctors and teachers are creative. Maybe not accountants, at least not at their jobs. Athletes surely are. Parents are definitely creative. We ALL are creative. Indeed, we all need to be creative to get through the day. Those who exercise their muscles through creative pursuits like art, music, writing, sewing, and more are the ones deemed creative. No, we are just the ones hitting the gym. Just like an athlete of any sort is the one that devotes their physical and mental energy to a physical pursuit, those of us deemed creative are the ones that devote our extra physical and mental energy to a creative pursuit. It’s a choice about how we spend our time more than anything.

March Morning Make Cheryl Arkison.jpg

So, for March, I chose to spend my time doing something completely foreign to me - making paper flowers. It made me a beginner again and it was awesome. My creative muscles got quite the workout, not to mention my clunky fingers. Being a beginner at something is amazing. It forces you to slow down, fire the brain up in new ways, and explore in an unfamiliar way. I know that all that terrifies people and it can do a number on your confidence, but I, personally, love it. It’s a good reminder that it is okay to be a beginner, that it’s okay to not be great or even good at something, that trying is as important as finishing.

I based the majority of my flowers on directions in the book The Exquisite Book of Paper Flowers by Livia Cetti. Not having a clue what I was doing I definitely needed the structure of directions. So I picked flowers based on their looks and whether she said they were easy or not. Partway through the month I decided I wanted to make some flowers that were not in her book so went to You Tube for instructions. Having some basic understanding from daily play meant that I could extrapolate and make up some of my own things. They didn’t always work, but I wouldn’t know that unless I tried.

March Morning Make Cheryl Arkison.jpg
March Morning Make Cheryl Arkison.jpg
March Morning Make Cheryl Arkison.jpg

Most interesting to me over the past month is my changing perspective on the flowers themselves and how I wanted them to look. I went back and forth between liking the not so perfectly accurate look of the tissue paper flowers and construction paper leaves, some days I preferred the crepe paper and other days it drove me nuts. I quite enjoyed the manipulation of the paper with bleach, that stayed throughout.

Will I make paper flowers again? Probably, if the occasion comes or the mood strikes. For now I have a lot of flowers to deliver to friends. We are at least 6 weeks away from real flowers here and we could also use the colour. Whether or not, however, you can sure that I my creative muscles are in better shape after this month. I hope yours are too.

March Morning Make Cheryl Arkison.jpg

Social Justice Sewing Academy Anti-Racist Guidebook

Anti-Racist Guidebook.jpg

Last fall, after a summer of Black Lives Matter protests, the Social Justice Sewing Academy set out to do some different kind of work. This, on top of the amazing lessons, memorials, and community work they already do. They’ve just published a guidebook for the sewers of the world, An Anti-Racist Guidebook.

What is Anti-Racism?

I came to the term through Ibram X. Kendi and his book How to Be an Anti Racist. Essentially, it is about doing more than saying you believe all races are equal. Saying you don’t see colour isn’t the answer. It is about examining the systemic racism that we all participate in one way or another, then actively working to dismantle it.

When the call for volunteers came out I signed up immediately. As a quilter who works almost exclusively in cotton, as a white woman who only learned more than pop culture civil rights history in the last 10 years, as a human, I wanted to do some of the anti-racism work for myself and our community. Ever since my trip to Alabama and seeing cotton fields for the first time I’ve wanted to dive deeper into its production. Hand in hand with that is the deep dive into the role cotton has played in systemic racism.

My essay in the Anti-Racist Guidebook is the result. I looked into the ties between slavery and cotton production, which most of us know about. But it also examines the growth of the Industrial Revolution and capitalism as tied to cotton production, and therefore slavery. It also examines current cotton production, including how those links aren’t really gone.

The process was eye-opening for sure. I hope it is for you. It has me hanging on to every scrap of my cotton, not wanting to waste a bit of effort that went into making it. I won’t lie, it also gives me mixed feelings about using cotton at all. This discomfort is good, its going to force me to dig deeper. The next step is to talk to the fabric companies that make our medium of choice and ask them about their current supply chain. The more we all know, the better.

I highly recommend checking out the entire Anti-Racist Guidebook. There are some incredible pieces on everything from code-meshing to political quilts, from housing to resiliency. Each essay is written by a volunteer. They place themselves in the work, to show the work rather than centre their story. Each essay also includes recommendations for self reflection by the reader, to do their own work on the topic.

Empire of Cotton.jpg

For my part one of my resources was this book: Empire of Cotton by Sven Beckert. I pulled from multiple sections but now I am sitting down for a good read. It is fascinating and disheartening at the same time, illuminating and depressing. But we can’t walk away from the thick, the ugly, the hard just because they are so. People live this still and it is up to all of us to move forward for all.

And for those of you who might want to tell me to keep politics out of quilting, I hope you read this guidebook. If anything, to know that cotton, our material of choice is inherently political.